What distinguishes a custom suit from one bought at a department store may be imperceptible at first: it’s all in the fit and the details. Just about every man looks better in clothing that was made just for him, because custom tailoring takes into consideration the asymmetry of the wearer’s body. Most men have one shoulder or hip that’s higher than the other, or one arm or leg that’s longer, for example.
In addition to a better fit, custom suits also have these seven hallmarks:
1. Jacket Collar
Look for hand-stitching around a turn-leaf collar. This will make the collar lie flatter.
2. Cloth Sweat Shields
Finer suits will have sweat shields in the jacket armpits made of same fabric as the
suit rather than the acetate lining.
3. Pockets
Look for high-end fabric in the inside of the pockets.
4. Button hole in the lapel and Boutonniere Loop
You should have a hand-stitched boutonniere loop behind the button hole of the lapel.
5. Waistband of pants
A pleated skirt inside the waistband allows for more movement than a flat fabric panel.
6. Zipper
The zipper should be nickel-plated, not plastic.
7. Trousers
The trousers should be lined to the knee and have a cloth heel guard for longer wear.
